Miniature Pigs For Sale At P.A.B.'s Farm, Bismarck, MO    

                          Organic Homesteading Since 2002 

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Miniature Swedish Landrace Information, Piglet Pricing And Realistic Answers To Your Pet   Pig Questions   angelamcnelly@yahoo.com

We are aware that information about miniature, micro, small or tea cup pigs is very scarce, and the majority of said info is at best very misleading. Please be advised that the following text was written by me and from our experiences with mini pigs. We enjoy our farm  and its purpose is to provide organic food for our family. Selling our mini pigs is merely a way to offset our livestock feed costs, not a way to make a living or a profit. When compiling answers and information from various previous customer inquiries about our mini pigs, I made an honest effort to be as realistic and unbiased as possible. I know it is quite a bit of information to digest, but please read it in its entirety. After which, if you don't feel capable or up to the task of caring for a minipig, please do NOT purchase one.  I'm not a licensed veterinarian, and I'm not in any way giving you veterinary advice.  Off label usage of animal medications is illegal and entirely up to you and your decision. 

Our pigs are living in a natural healthy environment, free from lice, mites, worms, etc., where they are allowed to engage in their natural tendencies. Mini pigs are quite hardy, easy to care for, fairly simple to house train, are calm and cause no pet allergies. They should, however, be kept on a quarterly ivermectin deworming schedule similar to any other medium sized house pet. We don't ship our mini  pigs. They are not like day old poultry. They just don't fare well during the shipping process. We will not subject them to that kind of stress, so please don't ask.

Pigs are very smart, more so than dogs or cats. Let me repeat that. Pigs are exceptionally intelligent, sometimes even more so than their owners. Keep that in mind when deciding whether or not you are willing to take on the 20 year commitment of having a miniature pig for a pet. You can train a pig to do its business outside, sometimes in 3 days or less. Paper training or litter box training are two other choices, but your pig will eventually prefer to do his or her business outdoors. Your piggy will root and make a mess with its litter box. Use plain dirt out of your yard, sand, wood pellets or pine shavings for box filler. At no time should you ever use clumping litter. It is likely to plug up your pig which could be fatal or at the very least an expensive trip to the vet.

Mini pigs are way easier to handle and maintain, much hardier, healthier and parasite resistant, much calmer with way better temperaments than standard sized hogs, and in no way do they need as sturdy a shelter or fencing. They definitely eat much less feed, about 1/10th that of a standard size pig. Two 8 oz. cups of feed per day for a full grown mini is usually plenty of chow to keep them happy and healthy. Treats are fine, but make them nutritious snacks like fruits and veggies not salty snacks and junk food. Pigs can develop salt poisoning if fed too much salt. Babies under 2 months of age can be fed an all natural *premium* quality dog food (free choice). This type of dog kibble (lamb & rice formulas 
are usually pretty good) is ideal piglet starter, but should *not* be fed to a pig beyond 2 months of age. From 2 months on an all natural pelleted horse feed or rabbit feed will work well for your piglet. The amount of feed consumed by your piglet is highly dependent on their living conditions and activity level.  A good starting point is  1/2  cup  per day and adjust up or down from there. If they are ribby, hippy or bony looking, increase their feed. If they are pudgy, puffed up or porky looking, then cut back on their feed. Just use common sense and good judgement. A raw egg stirred into your pigs food about 3 to 4 times a week will do wonders for their general health and their skin health.

What is the age a piglet needs to be before leaving mom? A piglet should have a minimum of   7 days of nourishment from his or her mother. After that the appropriate age all depends on you, the caregiver. We won't sell a piglet less than 3 weeks old unless the prospective buyer can give us clear and convincing evidence that he/she has adequate animal husbandry skills to give a piglet that young the proper care that it requires.

No pig of *any age* should be kept by itself for an extended period of time. Pigs are extremely social animals. Piglets less than 3 months old, need to be kept as inside house pigs. Young piglets are not like puppies or kittens. They are more like human babies, needing almost constant companionship from either you and your family or a docile house dog if you have one. You need some kind of appropriate companion animal for them if you're unable to offer them an appropriate amount of attention. The easiest solution is to purchase two piglets.

We neuter all of our boy piglets by 14 days old. An intact boar is the foulest smelling thing to ever hit your olfactory sense and will hump the daylights out of anything that he decides is his mate. We don't spay our female pigs, however. We leave that up to you to decide. There are so many differing opinions on the subject of spaying. We simply choose not to enter the fray. We don't see a danger to the animal if she is left intact. Plus, there is no bleeding or mess during pig estrus like with a dog and a change in her mood and urination habits is debatable.

Again, mini pigs are easy to care for and very hardy animals. However, depending on your location and their living area, they can be prone to mange mite problems. If you live in a wooded area or your pig is exposed to this type of environment or you have other house pets, you may need to keep him/her on a monthly instead of quarterly ivermectin anti - parasitic schedule. Your baby will receive his/her first dose from us prior to going home with you.

Please let us know if you have any other questions or if you would like to set up an appointment to come purchase a piglet.

Prices are as follows: all piglets are $200.00 each cash only.  We will not accept any other form of payment for any reason whatsoever.  Other similarly sized and colored minipigs sell for 5 times our price.  We feel this asking price is a reasonable one, and we hope that it will allow anyone a chance to have a miniature pig for a companion. 

We encourage all of our pig customers to maintain contact with us. All pigs that we sell will always have a home with us. If you find for any reason you can no longer care for your pig, we will be happy to take him or her back, no questions asked. However, we will *not* at any time refund your money.

We are sold out of piglets at this time, 2-22-2015.  New babies are planned for spring.

                                                             FAQS:                                                               

>>> Hello, I was reading through your info on your web page and I have been
>>> really interested in buying a pig for a while, but there are still some things
>>> I need to know. How big do mini pigs normally grow?

It really depends on what kind or breed of pig that you decide to purchase.
Standard true minis are probably the best choice for an inside pet. They look just like a regular farm pig. Think Babe or Wilbur but in many different colors and only 40 to 60 pounds as adults. They have long snouts, nice flat, straight backs, and are only potbellied when they are full of babies. A standard mini boar should never have a fat gut. They also do not have rolls of skin hanging anywhere. Their bodies are smooth and curvy not wrinkly. Their genetics are a swirl of feral, Painted Juliani, Vietnamese Potbellied, Ossabaw Island, and traditional breed farm pigs.
 
A good tip for judging adult size by looking at a baby is 4 x the piglet's age in months. A pig is for the most part finished growing by 2 years old (some folks say 3 to 5 years but that's for potbellies only and they're likely too big for your needs anyway). A piglet that will stay relatively small will be *no more than* 4 pounds at 1 month, 8 pounds at 2 months, 12 pounds at 3 months etc. on up to about 9 or 10 months and then their growth rate slows drastically. Our piglets, from our 40 to 60 pound mothers are between 3 and 5 pounds at 4 to 6 weeks old, and our 6 month olds are between 15 and 25 pounds.  Some of our piglets, when full grown (about 2 years old) will be smaller than average, but that also means some will be a bit larger. 

It's not as complicated has many would have you believe. Let's keep it simple. The size the pigs will be at adulthood depends, not totally, but for the most part on *genetics*. Look at the parents. If you cross 2 orange trees you're not going to get an apple.  If you breed two 40 pound pigs together you're not going to get 90 pound pigs. The genes for large size aren't there. You have to be a little flexible on the weight issue though with *any* pet pig. If your breeder says 40 or 50 pounds it's still possible for you to end up with one that is 60 or 70 pounds. If that freaks you out then a pig is probably not the right pet for you.  It is not possible to starve a pig to keep it small and still have a healthy, viable breeder.  It is also a myth that very young gilts can produce offspring to fool the prospective buyer into thinking the very young sow is a small adult.  A dishonest breeder can lie to you all day long about the size of a young boar but not a sow.  If the sow has babies suckling her and she's not emaciated and haggard, then those babies are hers, and she's at *minimum* 14 months old.  It is definitely true that pigs will be fertile and breed as early as 5 months old, just like rabbits.  However, 9 times out of 10 that poor, way too young, little sow will die when trying to farrow because her pelvis is not large enough to deliver the piglets.  If by some miracle she does survive, she won't have the necessary body mass to raise her piglets to weaning age (about 4 to 6 weeks).  Her babies would have to be bottle fed, so there is your red flag.  If a breeder claims that they routinely bottle feed all of their piglets, I would be very leery of buying from that particular seller.  Mother's milk is best,  and momma knows best when it comes to raising piglets.
 
If you are looking for a small manageable adult pig that won't destroy half your house then potbellies are probably not for you. They will normally be 80 to 100 pounds at the *smallest*. You need to learn what a potbelly looks like and stay away from that breed. They have a pushed in snout, concave, bowed back, big old gut that looks like they are pregnant all the time, and rolls of fat or lapped over skin. They make very nice outside pets. However, they do dig or root a lot like a lab or golden retriever and will need a strong fence for confinement. A potbelly kept inside the house is capable of rooting up your carpet, flipping your recliner or coffee table, and pushing your toilet off the wall. I am dead serious about this. If you take a potbelly into your house you *must* be prepared, you *must* be flexible, and you *must* have a contingency plan to deal with the problems that will arise.

>>> Do pigs get along with dogs and cats?

It depends on the dog or the cat, not the pig. You need to remember that pigs are food in a dog's mind, and cats, well cats are cats. Your pig will love to pal around with your dog or cat if your dog or cat will allow it.

>>> Our pig seems to have very dry and irritated skin.  Is this normal or is there               
>>> anything I can do for this?  Is it okay to give her baths and if so, is there
>>> anything to use in the water to help her skin.  Do pigs carry any kind of mites
>>> or anything that us humans can catch.  We all have had tiny bumps that ITCH!!! 
>>> Wasn't sure if it was just from being outside around the yard or maybe she
>>> had something making her itch too.

It sounds like your little piggy has mange mites. She is due for her quarterly dose of ivermectin. That should take care of the irritated skin problem. Irritated, flaky or cracked skin almost always means mites. Also, a half teaspoon of olive oil or flax seed oil on her feed each day will help condition her skin. Mange mites will most definitely bite humans, but will not live on humans. If you snuggle bare skin to bare skin with your piglet, the mites will be happy to suck your blood as well. They cannot be readily seen with the naked eye, thankfully they are very easy to kill and will *not* set up shop in your house like fleas have a nasty habit of doing. If the mites are numerous enough to be biting you, then they are probably just about to drive your pig insane. She is still young enough that an infestation of parasites could make her very ill. You should for sure dose her with the ivermectin now and, just to be certain, again in 21 days. After that, you should be able to go back onto the quarterly schedule. 

>>>Angie,                                                                                                              >>>
>>>After months of patience, trial and error, etc. I have no choice but to return
>>>both pigs to you as discussed when purchased.  They have a playground
>>>outside, a kennel inside, we've a schedule that hardly ever gets changed
>>>regarding going outside to play/bathroom, etc.  The male is influencing the
>>>female into acting badly, despite my attention the male will pee while standing
>>>at his eating dish, right after being taken outside. The female and the male
>>>just ate a 3" square of my brand new kitchen linoleum this morning, while in the >>>kennel. No matter what they will not stop eating on the corners of my walls and
>>>doors, mind you, these pigs aren't neglected, I keep a good watch on them,
>>>however, the flooring incident happened after mealtime this morning, they were >>>lying down like usual after eating and from my seat just around the corner I
>>>heard a noise I hadn't heard before and they had eaten my flooring.  My 
>>>patience is at an end with these animals, I don't have a quick temper at all, 
>>>however they have pushed it to the end.  The female since I've had her has 
>>>been a nervous wreck. I took them to the vet for a checkup and was told that 
>>>she would grow out of it or might need fixing, either case hasn't happened and >>>I'm not investing another penny in them.  These animals have every chew toy, >>>ball, squeaker, etc available to them yet they prefer wrecking my home. They >>>will come arms length to you when called, and if you don't have food, they >>>don't want anything to do with us. The pigs have been held, slept with until >>>they decided to go to the bathroom two nights in a row, despite being walked >>>at 10 PM before lying down.  I feed them the Masuri Mini Pig Youth chow that >>>they like and have a constant feed water supply. These pigs have wanted for >>>nothing and have been waited on hand and foot.  I would appreciate you taking >>>them back as the people around here who "claim" they want a pig, I promise >>>you wouldn't do 1/10th of what I've done to take care of them. Sarah and I >>>would rather they go to your farm because they'll get what they need.  I hate >>>being beat by a pig, but when my new kitchen flooring got eaten, I surrender.  >>>I'm going to Rolla tomorrow, and can bring them around 9 or so. I have no >>>other options, and the pigs gotta go.  I have 25# of feed that goes with them >>>and I have a kennel if you want it.  Thanks in advance.                                         >>> >>>Angie,                                                                                                            
>>>
>>>
After I sent the email, I had carpenters come to fix on my house and one of
>>>them knew someone who would take them so, as far as I know, I wont need  
>>>to bring them to you.  Sorry to bother you, and sorry the pigs didn't work out. 
>>>I still refer you when asked about the pigs tho.
                                                                                                                
I'm so sorry that you've had such a frustrating experience with your piglets. It   sounds like you have given them tons of care and attention. It also sounds like your two piglets bonded with each other instead of bonding with you. That is the root of your pet pig problems. You might want to keep the little girl, since she has the best temperament and give the little boy to your carpenter. Being the only pig in the house will force her to make you part of her herd. Also, a plastic small sized pet taxi as her kennel works much better than a wire dog crate with no bottom. Crate, potty and obedience training goes much more smoothly. Her crate is an excellent place to put her in a "time out" when she misbehaves. However, if her pet taxi is too large for her, she will likely pee and poop in it, which is also a no, no. Hopefully things work out for you whatever you decide to do. Again, sorry you are having so much trouble. I know that you were so happy to have a pet that doesn't bother your  allergies. 

                                                                                                                    
After reading over your e-mail a few more times, I have some further advice if you are interested. We're not really worried about the positive or negative referrals as much as we'd really like for you to have success with your pet pig. I wish you had contacted me before you were at the end of your rope. I would have been happy to lend some help. Hopefully it's not too late for you to salvage one of your piglets. I definitely think you should get rid of the male, save the female and start over with her training. A single animal of any kind (kitten, puppy, ferret etc.) intended for an inside house pet will tame down more quickly and show its human more love and attention than if it has another of its own kind around. To be fair, there are exceptions to this rule in both directions, but they are *not* the norm. Most folks are in denial about why their pet "loves" them. It was forced to bond with them when they took it away from everything it had ever known, away from its litter mates, away from its mother, away from its own kind. Now it is alone with only humans for interaction. Of course it will "love" its humans. It has no choice. That is the definition of domestication. As I said before, there are exceptions to this rule but they are *not* the norm. Many rabid pet owners will argue this point, but they are just in denial. It's a fact of nature. Every living thing would rather be with its own kind. Anyway, back to the training. Two of anything should be kenneled up separately until they earn the right to run together. You said, "No matter what they will not stop eating on the corners of my walls and doors." Right now, your piglets are too young to be out of their kennel and free to roam around the house. They have not earned that right. A side note about the kennel: It needs to be a plastic pet taxi only big enough that the animal can stretch its body and legs fully. If your pet's sleeping quarters are any bigger than that, it may start a favorite toilet corner in its kennel, and that is a big no no. Your home is a huge place, a massive environment to a wee, little piglet. Your babies are confused about what is outdoors and what is indoors. It's not fair to expect them to understand the difference between a door corner or baseboard and a tree or tree bark. Pigs love to chew tree roots and bark. Also, pee soaked linoleum is an easy chew target for a curious baby. Hence the need for an appropriate crate for them to live in until they are trained well enough to be out on their own supervised or not. The only time your piglets should be out of their kennels right now is when they are outside for daily exercise or on your lap for love and affection. If you keep more than one, all training should be done separately. That's all I can think of for now. Good luck, and please let us know either way what you decide to do.

                                                          End FAQS.

 

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